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Sketches
WILLIAM FISHER, an assistant professor in the art department, showed his
series of five panels, 14" by 18" each (Intaglio, Chine Colleí,
Ink Jet Print) at the 1998 Annual Faculty of the School of Visual Arts
and Dance Show.
"I remember as a child looking through a book on
human psychology. I came across a series of images, hand drawn, of "Tom".
The first showed a serious, handsome, distinguished face with the caption
How Tom Sees Himself. The next image showed a more friendly looking face,
slightly pudgy, approachable, captioned with How Tom's Friends See Him.
There were several more along this vein, all slightly different but obviously
the same person. For some time now my work has focused on the quantification
of humans, of intellect, the standardized way of judging societal fitness
and good citizenship.
The text was altered from the way I remember it,
in an attempt to give it a double meaning, How We Look in this context
would mean how we search. How We Think We Look To Others would be read
as how we seek what we need within other people and so on. The repetitive
nature of the images, the convolutions of the theme and text, the storybook
constellations floating around the real worlds of the drawings, all add,
I hope, to the absurdity of this world view, and relate to its adolescent,
strangely convincing basis"-William Fisher
PHYLLIS PRAY BOBER, a distinguished art historian,
is the 1997-98 Appleton Eminent Scholar in the Arts. Bober, known worldwide
for her work on ancient and Renaissance art, has increasingly turned her
attention to the study of the history of food and the culinary arts.
In the introduction to her new book, tentatively
titled Culture and Cuisine and scheduled to be published by the University
of Chicago Press in 1999, she writes: "A famous aphorism of the eighteenth-century
gastronomer Brillat-Savarin goes: Tell me what you eat; I will tell you
what you are. Taken literally, this dictum is said to have led the famous
actor Edmund Kean (1787-1833) to dine according to the character he was
to play: if a lover, he ate mutton; if a murderer, beef; and, if a tyrant,
pork."
Following are some guidelines to follow, courtesy
of Dr. Bober, should you wish to produce your own version of a Roman feast.
A convivium in ancient Rome included multi-course meals along with musical
and acrobatic entertainment.
"Make this a fine antidote to pervasive ideas of Romans, debased gluttony
and libertine ways, even if you opt for as much authenticity as possible
(i.e., reclining in triclinial style with no more than nine participants
and wearing proper costumes; appropriate entertainment).. . . In any case,
use suitable tableware (no forks, of course) and squares of stale bread
for individual plates are fun; For serving dishes I have used the pottery
receptacles that go under flower-pots since they resemble ordinary Roman
household ware."

STEEL-LIFE: PHYLLIS STRAUS, an advisor in the Department of Art who
also teaches an advanced sculpture workshop, uses a gas welding technique
with sheet steel. After cutting, heating, shaping and welding, vignettes
from her life emerge. Life-size, or larger, dogs, horses and children take
shape. They are coated with a clear finish, never painted, and left out
to rust with time.
PHYLLIS PRAY BOBER'S
Menu for a Roman Dinner
GUSTATIO (Hors d'oeuvres)
MULSUM (drink)
MENSA PRIMA :
EMBRACTUM BAIANUM (Delights of Baiae, a seaside resort )
PULLUS FRONTANIANUS ( Chicken a la Fronto)
PATINA DE ASPARAGIS (Asparagus Patina)
SECUNDA MENSA:
DULCIA THEBAICAE (Stuffed Dates in Honey)
PATINA DE PIRIS (Pears)
You must prepare a number of cooking aids well ahead of time in order
to have them available in labeled containers. The basics are: Garum/liquamen
(fermented fish sauce) can be bought in an Asian grocery ; Caroenum (by
boiling reduce a bottle of red wine to half its volume) ; Defrutum (reduce
fresh unfermented grape juice (must) to one-third volume) .
GUSTATIO (Hors d'oeuvres)
FERCULUM PETRONIANUM: Service a la Petronius. Especially effective if
you have a round table large enough to display images of 12 zodiacal signs
above each platter of hors d'oeuvres, which pun upon their names or myths.
If this spread seems too ambitious, use the dipping sauce given below with
hard-boiled eggs and crudites, being careful to avoid anachronistic vegetables
(no broccoli, for example, or New World string beans, tomatoes and peppers;
squash only of the marrow family, but some newcomers to the supermarket
such as taro (colocasia) would be authentic. Some examples of the use of
the signs the zodiac with suggestions for appropriate foods are:
Cancer (Trimalchio's birth sign). Use crab claws
for an extravagant feast, crab-apples pickled for a more modest play on
words; and,
Libra (scales holding tarts and cakes). A good spot
to include crackers, a high-fiber content variety.
Hors d'oeuvres should be served with an apertif,
mulsum. This is made by mixing honey into dry white wine. I recommend a
cheap but nonetheless good wine from Romania (Premiat).
DIPPING SAUCE #1 (for cucumber, celery, romaine lettuce-antiquity did
not know our headed lettuces). Mix 1 tsp. honey, 2 tbsps wine vinegar ,
2 tsps liquamen (nuoc mam or Philippine patis or Chinese fish sauce), a
pinch each of rue and pennyroyal or nepeta (catnip).
DIPPING SAUCE #2 (for hard boiled eggs, etc).
3 garlic cloves, crushed (or 3 drops of tincture of asafoetida and
a pinch of dried leaf)
1 tin anchovy fillets, with their oil
2 tbsps olive oil
1 tbsp. flour
1/2 cup wine vinegar
up to 1/2 cup retsina (Greek resinated wine)
freshly ground pepper
In a mortar, bray anchovies and flour to a smooth
paste. Saute garlic in olive oil briefly; add the anchovy mixture and slowly
incorporate the vinegar, stirring until smooth and thickened. Season with
pepper and gradually add the retsina, stirring at the simmer for about
15 minutes. Cool and serve.
MENSA PRIMA
EMBRACTUM BAIANUM (Delights of Baiae, a seaside resort)
Steam open 4 lbs of mussels in a 1/4 cup white wine.
When shelled mince these, together with 2 containers of shucked oysters
poached for a few minutes in their own liquor and the edible roe from 2
lbs of sea-urchins (available Spring and Fall in Italian fish shops. When
you break open each testa you will note the cartilaginous "mouth" called
"Aristotle's lantern" because the Greek philosopher and naturalist was
the first to describe this feature, and because it does resemble an old-fashioned
lantern. The orange star-shaped roe or gonads may be lifted out easily).
Toast in a slow oven 1/4 cup of pine-nuts, then chop and combine with the
sea-foods and a finely chopped stalk of celery. In a mortar crush 6 peppercorns,
and equivalent amounts of both coriander and cumin seeds; add a pinch to
1/4 tsp. of rue (can substitute chervil or marjoram). Combine with seafood
mixture, together with chopped fresh dates (Apicius specifies "Jerico"
dates) to a proportion that seems right for your taste, remembering you
wish to balance the sea flavors, not overwhelm them.
Moisten all with olive oil, liquamen, and a sweet wine (made by reducing
white wine, boiled with sultana raisins) mixed for sweet-salty harmony,
about 1/4 to 1/3 cup in total. Serve cold, if desired in individual shells.
It is also possible to serve hot: Bake in a gratin dish for 10 to 15 minutes
at 350F. In either case, garnish with green coriander.
PULLUS FRONTANIANUS (Chicken A La Fronto)
1 frying chicken, cut in pieces, or 2 lbs. chicken legs and thighs
2 leeks, cleaned and cut in rounds
1 tsp. ground dried savory
1/4 cup olive oil for sauteeing chicken
1 small bunch dill
1 small bunch coriander
4 oz. Pine-nuts
2 to 3 tbsps. Liquamen, or to taste
1/4 cup defrutum (fresh) grape juice reduced to 1/3 volume)
freshly ground pepper
Brown the chicken in the oil without seasoning. Set pieces in one layer
in an oiled baking/serving dish, scattering leeks, pine-nuts, chopped herbs
among them. Sprinkle with the fish sauce (liquamen) and savory. Bake at
350F for 1/2 hour or until tender. Finish with defrutum and pepper.
PATINA DE ASPARAGIS (Asparagus Patina)
1 lb. Asparagus
1/4 cup wine (rose or vernaccia)
1 small onion
2 or 3 medium eggs
peppercorns, lovage, coriander, savory to taste
olive oil, sweet wine and liquamen
Make a puree of asparagus and 1/4 cup of wine, reserving some tips foor
a garnish. Bray in a clean mortar the pepper and herbs (quantity your call;
half the fun of Roman cookery is the continual tasting and estimating of
cumulative effect). Grate the onion or put through a food mill. Add with
the spices to the puree and mix in a mixture of reduced sweet wine and
liquamen, plus a bit of oil, enough to moisten the puree but not to turn
it soupy. Put all of the mixture into a greased oven-proof, shallow dish;
garnish with reserved asparagus. Beat eggs as for scrambling and pour over
the puree when it is thoroughly heated in a 325F oven, pushing it to make
uneven pools to receive the eggs; continue to bake until eggs are set,
sprinkle with freshly ground pepper and serve.
DULCIA THEBAICAE (Stuffed Dates in Honey)
Toast pine-nuts in a slow oven until they color. Take fresh dates, stone
them and refill cavities with the toasted nuts, about two to a date. Roll
in coarse canning or kosher salt. Heat a skillet full of honey (thyme or
rosemary preferred) in which the dates may be spread in one layer. Heat
through and serve warm.
PATINA DE PIRIS
6 pears of a firm variety
red or white wine to poach pears (may be mixed with water for economy)
honey
3 or 4 beaten eggs
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsps olive oil
1 tsp liquamen
2 tbsps reduced wine, sweetened by simmering with raisins
pepper
Poach pears until tender; peel and core; reserve two for decoration
of the dish. Puree four pears with remaining ingredients, adding eggs and
oil last. Pour into a greased pie dish and decorate top with slices of
remaining pears arranged in a slightly overlapping circular pattern; glaze
top with honey mixed with a little oil. Bake in a 375oF oven for 20 to
25 minutes.
NOTE: You may wish to bake a bread from Cato's repertoire, but guests
will be happier with any good wholemeal loaf (or semolina). Plates may
authentically be focaccia to be eaten before dessert with all of its soaked
in sauces. Remember that you eat with your fingers; provide a handsome
basin of water perfumed with rosewater or spices.
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